May 11, 2021


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Fried Hen Sandwich Friday: 93 Til in Montrose scores an A as well as

“The Hen Sandwich” at 93 Til in Montrose

Photograph: Alison Cook dinner / Employees

And now for a Burger Friday which is totally various: a paean to the only fried-chicken sandwich I’ve ever cared about.

Effectively, pretty much the only fried-hen sandwich I have ever cared about, if you don’t look at the chicken-on-a-biscuit scenario they applied to provide at the late, terrific Morningstar.

I know this is, nominally, a burger column. And no, I do not believe any hunk of protein inserted into a bun-and-condiments context constitutes a burger, whether or not mentioned protein be tuna, tofu, fried hen or usually.

A burger includes beef, and I’m not gonna argue about that.

Even so, this week’s scheduled burger expertise arrived to a crashing logistical halt owing to on the web ordering troubles you seriously, definitely do not want to know about. I was disconsolate. The sun was location. My working day, not to mention my 30-mile spherical trip, had gone poorly.

And then, expensive viewers, I considered of it: the fried chicken sandwich I experienced eaten at 93 Til, the extremely-informal bistro and history lounge opened in December by co-chefs Gary Ly and Lung Ly.

The memory stretched across the miles and disappointment and impelled me to travel right to the corner of Mandell and West Most important, where by massive reside oaks conjure the spirit of Old Montrose.

93 Til

1601 W. Most important, 281-846-6405

I suppose my brain had been jogged by the a lot-buzzed-about debut of celeb chef David Chang’s Fuku fried-rooster-sandwich delivery service this past Wednesday, and the simple fact that I experienced been wondering grumpily about the topic of fried rooster sandwiches as latterday fetish objects.

But largely I just wanted to consume 93 Til’s fried rooster sandwich all over again. To see if I definitely preferred it as substantially as I considered I did. With apologies and obeisances to the burger gods, here’s how that went.

Price: $14 for The Hen Sandwich, as it is styled on the menu $16 for a glass of Cremant de Jura sparkling wine to go with it, for a overall of 30 bucks.

Purchasing: You come across your have seat— a wrinkle I like — on 93 Til’s expansive entrance patio or the slender dining terrace that runs along the restaurant’s entrance facade. Use your smartphone to scan the QR barcode that sits on just about every tabletop, then abide by the prompt to the restaurant’s web page, wherever its limited, revolving menu and beverages lists wait around. A cordial server will choose your order.

ARCHITECTURE: This sandwich building places the emphasis on the horizontal. In fact, it summons up the huge-winged cornettes worn by some orders of nun, with sweeps of comically lengthy fried-hen breast protruding on both aspect.

On the toasted internal area a shiny, non-poufy brioche bun goes a layer of bread and butter pickles built in-home, followed by a foot-vast swath of fried chicken, a tumble of cabbage-and-kale slaw, and a crowning sploosh of aioli. That’s it, sports fans.

Excellent: Whoa. All the meticulously considered pieces click on into a supremely gratifying full, the essence of sandwich excellence. The high-quality bun from regional Bread Person Baking Business performs its job without the need of at any time acquiring in the way, an important thing to consider. The pickles give a tart jolt of electricity underlain by just a whisper of sweet in opposition to the bitter, offering them a distinctive identity in the bread-and-butter genre.

The slaw provides just plenty of vegetal bounce to the proceedings, and to my surprise, the frizzly bits of kale harmonize perfectly with the shredded cabbage. The aioli provides a welcome factor of slide.

And can we converse about that buttermilk-brined fried rooster? It’s spectacular, all crunch and produce and crunch yet again, with a refined, nuanced heat that will come from a mix of cayenne and smoked paprika.

I’m seriously more of a purist fried chicken supporter, as in “just try to eat it straight,” but this sandwich has turned my stubborn head. In my entire world, it actually does are entitled to its mock-haughty designation as “THE Chicken Sandwich.”

You can get it at any time following 4 p.m. Tuesday by means of Sunday or at the weekend brunches, from 11 a.m.-3 p.m.

OOZE Ranking: Condiment-based slide.

LETTER Grade: A plus.

Value: Good in phrases of each high-quality and amount.

Reward Factors: Well-chosen wines by the glass from natural producers make foods here even improved. (Try out the Marcel Cabelier Crémant de Jura that’s now on the revolving record, a sparkler just produced for fried hen. Actually.) And the chefs are normally coming up with attention-grabbing vegetable therapies need to you want a aspect dish. Maybe blistered shishito peppers moored in a vivid aioli flavored with charred spring ramps, which are now in year for a brief window. Wowza.

Area Shade: It did my coronary heart great to see 93 Til’s patio practically filled (and socially distanced) on a weekday evening. Strings of lights interspersed by modest flying canopies marked out the picket deck, a father built humorous faces at the stroller parked opposite him, couples and households and solo diners arrived and went as the twilight dimmed. On a bench seat, I noticed a wagging pet dog tail.

Around it all wrapped the tunes from 93 Til’s vinyl collection, a lot of it from an previously hip hop era. I seldom know what’s participating in, and I nearly usually like it. The audio observe in this article is just portion of what would make this youthful cafe sense so personalized, and so human.

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  • Alison Cook dinner

    Alison Cook dinner – a two-time James Beard Award winner for restaurant criticism and an M.F.K. Fisher Distinguished Creating award receiver – has been reviewing dining establishments and surveying the dining scene for the Houston Chronicle considering that 2002.